Articles
The Truth About Fats
part 3/ Articles
| by Mary Enig, PhD, and Sally Fallon |
|
Part 3
Cholesterol screening for everyone
In November of 1986, the Journal of the American Medical Association
published a series on the Lipid Research Clinics trials, including
“Cholesterol and Coronary Heart Disease: A New Era” by
longtime American Heart Association member Scott Grundy, MD, PhD.35
The article is a disturbing combination of euphoria and agony—euphoria
at the forward movement of the lipid hypothesis juggernaut, and agony
over the elusive nature of real proof. “The recent consensus
conference on cholesterol. . . implied that levels between 200 and
240. . carry at least a mild increase in risk, which they obviously
do. . .” said Grundy, directly contradicting an earlier statement
that “Evidence relating plasma cholesterol levels to atherosclerosis
and CHD has become so strong as to leave little doubt of the etiologic
connection.” Grundy called for “. . . the simple step
of measuring the plasma cholesterol level in all adults. . . those
found to have elevated cholesterol levels can be designated as at
high risk and thereby can enter the medical care system. . . an enormous
number of patients will be included.” Who benefits from “the
simple step of measuring the plasma cholesterol level in all adults?”
Why, hospitals, laboratories, pharmaceutical companies, the vegetable
oil industry, margarine manufacturers, food processors and, of course,
medical doctors. “Many physicians will see the advantages of
using drugs for cholesterol lowering. . .” said Grundy, even
though “a positive benefit/risk ratio for cholesterol-lowering
drugs will be difficult to prove.” The cost in the US of cholesterol
screening and cholesterol-lowering drugs alone now stands at sixty
billion dollars per year, even though a positive risk/benefit ratio
for such treatment has never been established. Physicians, however,
have “seen the advantages of using drugs for cholesterol lowering”
as a way of creating patients out of healthy people.
Grundy was equally schizophrenic about the benefits of dietary modification.
“Whether diet has a long term effect on cholesterol remains
to be proved,” he stated, but “Public health advocates
furthermore can play an important role by urging the food industry
to provide palatable choices of foods that are low in cholesterol,
saturated fatty acids and total calories.” Such foods, almost
by definition, contain partially hydrogenated vegetable oils that
imitate the advantages of animal fats. Grundy knew that the trans
fats were a problem, that they raised serum cholesterol and contributed
to the etiology of many diseases—he knew because a year earlier,
at his request, Mary Enig had sent him a package of data detailing
numerous studies that gave reason for concern, which he acknowledged
in a signed letter as “an important contribution to the ongoing
debate.”
Other mouthpieces of the medical establishment fell in line after
the Consensus Conference. In 1987 the National Academy of Science
(NAS) published an overview in the form of a handout booklet containing
a whitewash of the trans problem and a pejorative description of palm
oil—a natural fat high in beneficial saturates and monounsaturates
that, like butter, has nourished healthy population groups for thousands
of years, and, also like butter, competes with hydrogenated fats because
it can be used as a shortening. The following year the Surgeon General’s
Report on Nutrition and Health emphasized the importance of making
low-fat foods more widely available. Project LEAN (Low-Fat Eating
for America Now) sponsored by the J. Kaiser Family Foundation and
a host of establishment groups such as the America Heart Association,
the American Dietetic Association, the American Medical Association,
the USDA, the National Cancer Institute, Centers for Disease Control
and the National Heart, Lung and Blood Institute announced a publicity
campaign to “aggressively promote foods low in saturated fat
and cholesterol in order to reduce the risk of heart disease and cancer.”
National Food Processors Association Conference
The following year, Enig joined Frank McLaughlin, Director of the
Center for Business and Public Policy at the University of Maryland,
in testimony before the National Food Processors Association. It was
a closed conference, for NFPA members only. Enig and McLaughlin had
been invited to give “a view from academia.” Enig presented
a number of slides and warned against singling out classes of fats
and oils for special pejorative labeling. A representative from Frito-Lay
took umbrage at Enig’s slides, which listed amounts of trans
fats in Frito-Lay products. Enig offered to redo the analyses if Frito-Lay
would to fund the research. “If you’d talk different,
you’d get money,” he said.
Enig urged the association to endorse accurate labeling of trans
fats in all food items but conference participants—including
representatives from most of the major food processing giants—preferred
a policy of “voluntary labeling” that did not unnecessarily
alert the public to the presence of trans fats in their foods. To
date they have prevailed in preventing the inclusion of trans fats
on nutrition labels.
Enig’s cat and mouse game with Hunter and Applewhite of the
Institute of Shortening and Edible Oils continued throughout the later
years of the 1980’s. Their modus operandi was to pepper the
literature with articles that downplayed the dangers of trans fats,
to use their influence to prevent opposing points of view from appearing
in print and to follow-up the few alarmist articles that did squeak
through with “definitive rebuttals.” In 1987 Enig submitted
a paper on trans fatty acids in the US diet to the American Journal
of Clinical Nutrition, as a reply to the erroneous 1985 FASEB report
as well as to Hunter and Applewhite’s influential 1986 article,
which by even the most conservative analysis underestimated the average
American consumption of partially hydrogenated fats. Editor-in-chief
Albert Mendeloff, MD rejected Enig’s rebuttal as “inappropriate
for the journal’s readership.” His rejection letter invited
her to resubmit her paper if she could come up with “new evidence.”
In 1991, the article finally came out in a less prestigious publication,
the Journal of the American College of Nutrition,36 although Applewhite
did his best to coerce editor Mildred Seelig into removing it at the
last minute. Hunter and Applewhite submitted letters and then an article
of rebuttal to the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition,37 which
were published shortly thereafter. In the article, entitled “Reassessment
of trans fatty acid availability in the US diet,” Hunter and
Applewhite argued that the amount of trans in the American diet had
actually declined since 1984, due to the introduction of soft margarines
and tub spreads. The media fell in line with their pronouncements,
with numerous articles by food writers recommending low-trans tub
spreads, made from polyunsaturated vegetable oils, as the sensible
alternative to saturated fat from animal sources—not surprising
as most newspapers rely on the International Food Information Council,
an arm of the food processing industry, for their nutrition information.
Other research on trans fats
Enig and the University of Maryland group were not alone in their
efforts to bring their concerns about the effect of partially hydrogenated
fats before the public. Fred Kummerow at the University of Illinois,
blessed with independent funding and an abundance of patience, carried
out a number of studies that indicated that the trans fats increased
risk factors associated with heart disease, and that vegetable-oil-based
fabricated foods such as Egg Beaters cannot support life.38 George
Mann, formerly with the Framingham project, possessed neither funding
nor patience—he was, in fact, very angry with what he called
the Diet/Heart scam. His independent studies of the Masai in Africa,39
whose diet is extremely rich in cholesterol and saturated fat, and
who are virtually free of heart disease, had convinced him that the
lipid hypothesis was “the public health diversion of this century.
. . the greatest scam in the history of medicine.”40 He resolved
to bring the issue before the public by organizing a conference in
Washington DC in November of 1991.
“Hundreds of millions of tax dollars are wasted by the bureaucracy
and the self-interested Heart Association,” he wrote in his
invitation to participants. “Segments of the food industry play
the game for profits. Research on the true causes and prevention is
stifled by denying funding to the ‘unbelievers.’ This
meeting will review the data and expose the rascals.”
The rascals did their best to prevent the meeting from taking place.
Funding promised by the Greenwall Foundation of New York City was
later withdrawn, so Mann paid most of the bills. A press release sent
as a dirty trick to speakers and participants wrongly announced that
the conference had been cancelled. Several speakers did in fact renege
at the last minute on their commitment to attend, including the prestigious
Dr. Roslyn Alfin-Slater and Dr. Peter Nixon of London. Dr. Eliot Corday
of Los Angeles cancelled after being told that his attendance would
jeopardize future funding.
The final pared-down roster included Dr. George Mann, Dr. Mary Enig,
Dr. Victor Herbert, Dr. Petr Skrabenek, William B. Parsons, Jr., Dr.
James McCormick, a physician from Dublin, Dr. William Stehbens from
New Zealand, who described the normal protective process of arterial
thickening at points of greatest stress and pressure, and Dr. Meyer
Texon an expert in the dynamics of blood flow. Mann, in his presentation,
blasted the system that had foisted the lipid hypothesis on a gullible
public. “You will see,” he said, “that many of our
contributors are senior scientists. They are so for a reason that
has become painfully conspicuous as we organized this meeting. Scientists
who must go before review panels for their research funding know well
that to speak out, to disagree with this false dogma of Diet/Heart,
is a fatal error. They must comply or go unfunded. I could show a
list of scientists who said to me, in effect, when I invited them
to participate: ‘I believe you are right, that the Diet/Heart
hypothesis is wrong, but I cannot join you because that would jeopardize
my perks and funding.’ For me, that kind of hypocritical response
separates the scientists from the operators—the men from the
boys.”
90s see the nation well oiled
By the nineties the operators had succeeded, by slick manipulation
of the press and of scientific research, in transforming America into
a nation that was well and truly oiled. Consumption of butter had
bottomed out at about 5 grams per person per day, down from almost
18 at the turn of the century. Use of lard and tallow had been reduced
by two-thirds. Margarine consumption had jumped from less than 2 grams
per person per day in 1909 to about 11 in 1960. Since then consumption
figures had changed little, remaining at about 11 grams per person
per day—perhaps because knowledge of margarine’s dangers
had been slowly seeping out to the public. However, most of the trans
fats in the current American diet come not from margarine but from
shortening used in fried and fabricated foods. American shortening
consumption of 10 grams per person per day held steady until the 1960’s,
although the content of that shortening had changed from mostly lard,
tallow and coconut oil—all natural fats—to partially hydrogenated
soybean oil. Then shortening consumption shot up and by 1993 had tripled
to over 30 grams per person per day.
But the most dramatic overall change in the American diet was the
huge increase in the consumption of liquid vegetable oils, from slightly
less than 2 grams per person per day in 1909 to over 30 in 1993—a
fifteen fold increase.
Dangers of polyunsaturates
The irony is that these trends have persisted concurrently with revelations
about the dangers of polyunsaturates. Because polyunsaturates are
highly subject to rancidity, they increase the body’s need for
vitamin E and other antioxidants. Excess consumption of vegetable
oils is especially damaging to the reproductive organs and the lungs—both
of which are sites for huge increases in cancer in the US. In test
animals, diets high in polyunsaturates from vegetable oils inhibit
the ability to learn, especially under conditions of stress; they
are toxic to the liver; they compromise the integrity of the immune
system; they depress the mental and physical growth of infants; they
increase levels of uric acid in the blood; they cause abnormal fatty
acid profiles in the adipose tissues; they have been linked to mental
decline and chromosomal damage; they accelerate aging. Excess consumption
of polyunsaturates is associated with increasing rates of cancer,
heart disease and weight gain; excess use of commercial vegetable
oils interferes with the production of prostaglandins leading to an
array of complaints ranging from autoimmune disease to PMS. Disruption
of prostaglandin production leads to an increased tendency to form
blood clots, and hence myocardial infarction, which has reached epidemic
levels in America.41
Vegetable oils are more toxic when heated. One study reported that
polyunsaturates turn to varnish in the intestines. A study by a plastic
surgeon found that women who consumed mostly vegetable oils had far
more wrinkles than those who used traditional animal fats. A 1994
study appearing in the Lancet showed that almost three quarters of
the fat in artery clogs is unsaturated. The “artery clogging”
fats are not animal fats but vegetable oils.42
Those who have most actively promoted the use of polyunsaturated
vegetable oils as part of a Prudent Diet are well aware of their dangers.
In 1971, William B. Kannel, former director of the Framingham study,
warned against including too many polyunsaturates in the diet. A year
earlier, Dr. William Connor of the American Heart Association issued
a similar warning, and Frederick Stare reviewed an article which reported
that the use of polyunsaturated oils caused an increase in breast
tumors. And Kritchevsky, way back in 1969, discovered that the use
of corn oil caused an increase in atherosclerosis.43
As for the trans fats, produced in vegetable oils when they are partially
hydrogenated, the results that are now in the literature more than
justify concerns of early investigators about the relation between
trans fats and both heart disease and cancer. The research group at
the University of Maryland found that trans fatty acids not only alter
enzymes that neutralize carcinogens, and increase enzymes that potentiate
carcinogens, but also depress milk fat production in nursing mothers
and decrease insulin binding.44 In other words, trans fatty acids
in the diet interfere with the ability of new mothers to nurse successfully
and increase the likelihood of developing diabetes. Unpublished work
indicates that trans fats contribute to osteoporosis. Hanis, a Czechoslovakian
researcher, found that trans consumption decreased testosterone, caused
the production of abnormal sperm and altered gestation.45 Koletzko,
a German pediatric researcher found that excess trans consumption
in pregnant mothers predisposed them to low birth weight babies.46
Trans consumption interferes with the body’s use of omega-3
fatty acids found in fish oils, grains and green vegetables, leading
to impaired prostaglandin production.47 George Mann confirmed that
trans consumption increases the incidence of heart disease.48 In 1995,
European researchers found a positive correlation between breast cancer
rates and trans consumption.49
Until the 1995 study, only the disturbing revelations of Dutch researchers
Mensink and Katan, in 1990, received front page coverage. Mensink
and Katan found that margarine consumption increased coronary heart
disease risk factors.50 The industry—and the press—responded
by promoting tub spreads, which contain reduced amounts of trans compared
to stick margarine. For the general population, these trans reductions
have been more than offset by changes in the types of fat used by
the fast food industry. In the early 1980’s, Center for Science
in the Public Interest campaigned against the use of beef tallow for
frying potatoes. Before that they campaigned against the use of tallow
for frying chicken and fish. Most fast food concerns switched to partially
hydrogenated soybean oil for all fried foods. Some deep fried foods
have been tested at almost 50% trans.51
Epidemiologist Walter Willett at Harvard worked for many years with
flawed data bases which did not identify trans fats as a dietary component.
He found a correlation with dietary fat consumption and both heart
disease and cancer. After his researchers contacted Enig about the
trans data, they developed a more valid data base that was used in
the analysis of the massive Nurses Study. When Willett’s group
separated out the trans component in their analyses, they were able
to confirm greater rates of cancer in those consuming margarine and
vegetable shortenings—not butter, eggs, cheese and meat.52 The
correlation of trans fat consumption and cancer was never published,
but was reported at the Baltimore Data Bank Conference in 1992.
In 1993 Willett’s research group at Harvard found that trans
contributed to heart disease,53 and this study was not ignored, but
received much fanfare in the press. Willett’s first reference
in his report was Enig’s work on the trans content of common
foods.
The industry continues to argue that American trans consumption is
a low six to eight grams per person per day, not enough to contribute
to today’s epidemic of chronic disease. Total per capita consumption
of margarine and shortening hovers around 40 grams per person per
day. If these products contain 30% trans (many shortenings contain
more) then average consumption is about 12 grams per person per day.
In reality, consumption figures can be dramatically higher for some
individuals. A 1989 Washington Post article documented the diet of
a teenage girl who ate 12 donuts and 24 cookies over a three day period.
Total trans worked out to at least 30 grams per day, and possibly
much more. The fat in the chips that teenagers consume in abundance
may contain up to 48% trans which translates into 45.6 grams of trans
fat in a small ten-ounce bag of snack chips—which a hungry teenager
can gobble up in a few minutes. High school sex education classes
do not teach American teenagers that the altered fats in their snack
foods may severely compromise their ability to have normal sex, conceive,
give birth to healthy babies and successfully nurse their infants.
Part 1,
2,
3,
4,
References